I was on the M6 road from Croatia heading into Bosnia, a road which by the way is about the same width as my car. My GPS signal was going in and out, and for two hours the only things I passed were a few cows. Being off-the-grid, so to speak, was both slightly nerve racking with nothing around me except mountains, and also quite exhilarating. I was off on an adventure to find the Kravice Waterfalls in Studenci, Bosnia near Ljubuški, 1 hour southwest of Mostar. I found myself bored by the ever-present tourist vibe of Debrovnik, Croatia, my main destination in coming to the Balkans. One afternoon, as I lay lazily on a sandy shore on a hidden beach I had found close to Debrovnik, I thought to myself how much I desperately needed an adventure. So, I decided to go on a roadtrip through Bosnia and set my compass north to explore these hidden Kravice Waterfalls in Bosnia. However, the extent of my adventure was yet realized. Although the falls were marked on my maps, I wasn’t aware of the lacking road signs and that most of the roads look like either private driveways, or off-roading destinations, making it extremely difficult to pinpoint the exact location. This however would just added to the adventure!
Crossing the border from Croatia into Bosnia was an amusing experience and a study of contrasts. One border control officer as I left Croatia decided to joke with me, telling me my passport is a fake. Immediately picking up on the joke, I continued the ruse responding, “If you don’t like that one, I have many others you can choose from.” However, in complete opposition, the entry Bosnian border police were stoic, unflappable, and didn’t seem to be open to my quips.
Once in Bosnia, the first two-thirds of my trip were in the middle of nowhere again, traversing mountains and valleys, blazen with frothy whipped cream clouds floating above and flaunting the rarefied, cerulean sky. I could allow myself to think like this, like a romantic poet, as I had no idea where I was most of the time or even if I was on the correct road. My mind seemed to wander as I did, just enjoying the sunshine while doing a bit of cow-gazing. Luckily, the other third of my trip was in more habitable areas.
View from R-426 road
Finally, after some driving in circles and a bit of sheer luck as asking for directions was both frustrating and useless, I had reached my destination, a parking lot with a small bar and a sign pointing downhill to the Kravice Falls. It’s about a quarter of a mile hike snaking down the mountain, reaching a set of stairs leading to a pool of water. The falls are still not visible although the unmistakable rumbling of the water can be heard from far above. Making my way down the slope, the falls suddenly appeared over my right shoulder, leaving me standing motionless in astonishment as the bright blue sky contrasts with the green of the trees and the white of the crashing water. The pools of water looked so inviting and warm, but be warned: only strong swimmers should enter as there is a fast current and the temperature is roughly 8℃, and let’s not forget about the snakes also enjoying a little mid-day swim. Having arrived early, I had the pleasure of enjoying the crashing falls while lying in the tall grass, my feet dangling in the pools. With few people disrupting the tranquility of the place, I waded through the water ankle deep and among a few nearby snakes swimming around, then I dove into the water as if to show them I could.
After spending some relaxing time at the Krevice Falls, I got back into my car and began the next leg of my road trip to Mostar. Unlike the first leg of my trip, I was on main roads with two-way traffic plus the center of the city was easy to find. Although Bosnia is beautiful, pale yellow-grey buildings crumble and unkempt roads show the scars of the recent 1991 War of Independence from Yugoslavia. In populated areas, structures in disarray are being slowly rebuilt and are constantly under construction. Bullet holes riddle the sides of buildings while dirt and soot lay at the cracked foundations among piles of wood and steel beams. Unlike its neighbor Croatia, the restoration of the country is variable and not as extensive, mainly focused on the larger, more touristic cities like Mostar or Dubrovnik which was perfectly restored so much so at times it seemed like a fake city built inside Disney Land.
Mostar, famous for its 16th-century Ottoman bridge, the Stari Most, guarded by bridge keepers, Mostari, which is where the city’s name originates, is positioned on the Neretva River, which meanders through lush vegetation and small mountains. Beyond Stari Most and up along the Neretva River, one can see Koski Mehmed-Pašina Džamija, a grand mosque built in 1617. Even though the war took its toll on so many buildings and artifacts and was also the cause of the destruction of the bridge, it was restored to its original design during 1999 to 2004.
I spent my time wandering back and forth along the bridge dividing the two parts of the old town, browsing the markets, smelling the incense, and taking in the ancient sensation of a small historical city. Sadly, I had to leave Bosnia and return to Croatia early as I was on another quest, this time it was for Oysters. But I’ll save that story for next time!
About the Author
Hello fellow adventurers, I’m Alessandra, a Biochemist originally from Boston and an exuberant daredevil with a sharp sense of humor and a passion for exploration. I desire traveling the world and creating daring and unexpected experiences. This site, To Bend the Throttle, is intended to divulge how everyone can incorporate travel and adventure into their busy life.